Reaching New Heights in My 60s

By Daneille Legg, I Start Wondering Columnist

Each decade brings new opportunities and lessons, as our internal struggles become more apparent as we get older and become more self-aware As I mentioned in my previous column, I am excited to have reached 60. There is something about the 50s and 60s for women that is empowering, liberating, and full of anticipation. 

In honor of this latest milestone, I decided to hike Peru’s famed Inca Trail to Machu Picchu with a couple of friends. This is not just any old hike; on Day 2 alone, we would have to hike 4-5 hours straight up to reach Dead Woman’s Pass (Warmiwañusqa), which is at an altitude of 14,000 feet. 

When I found this out, I immediately googled how many people have died while hiking the Inca trails and was relieved to find that no one has died (yet). (The reason it is called Dead Woman’s Pass is because the mountain tops form a silhouette of a woman laying down). Whew!

Embracing a New Challenge

Why did I choose to hike the Inca trails to honor my 60th birthday? The older I get, the more I want to take meaningful trips that will push me in my personal growth journey and deepen my spiritual side. 

A year ago, I hiked 177 miles on the Camino de Santiago in Portugal and Spain with a few friends. I wanted to experience the path that so many have travelled for a thousand years as a pilgrimage to St. James. It was a deeply meaningful trip, and the Inca Trail, which is also a pilgrimage designed to encourage contemplation and reflection, seemed like a great next step. Fortunately, my friends were all in. 

The Inca Trail is a network of ancient stone paths built by the Inca Empire during the mid-1300s to 1400s. The trails connected the empire, which stretched from Ecuador to Chile with the capitol, located in Cusco, Peru. 

Machu Picchu was a royal retreat built for the Inca Emperor Pachacuti in the mid-1400s. It is considered a spiritual experience based on the way it aligns the sun and the mountains, and reflects the Inca’s advanced astronomy and engineering skills. It is considered by many to be a life-changing experience based on the physical challenge of reaching this location, its vast natural beauty and its ancient mystery. 

Preparing for the Journey

Realizing the challenge that I was facing,  I created an appropriate workout schedule with the help of AI. My routine involved a long distance hike on Saturdays and doing a few miles of stairs on Sundays. During the week I would do weights, cardio and a shorter hike. I was pleased that I had it all figured out and would be well prepared so that my age would not be an issue while hiking these challenging trails. 

But the universe had other plans. As I was finishing up an eight-mile hike, I stumbled and fell, crashing to the ground. My elbow and hand were scraped up and my leggings were ripped. More worrisome, my knee was so banged up that I had to limp to my car. I drove home and doctored my knee the best I could.

However, this injury ended up setting me back. It was painful for several weeks and I couldn’t walk up or down stairs. I was forced to rest and ice it, waiting for my body to work its magic and heal itself. 

Isn’t this the way life is? We plan and prepare but often we are thrown a curve ball. How we choose to respond to life’s challenges will determine the direction we take. I chose to push forward and ease back into training. But would I be ready in time? 

For a couple of months, I had no choice but to slow down. My knee worked when it wanted to and spoke loudly to me when it didn’t. I listened and adjusted as needed. 

As time closed in and the trip was on the horizon, I never totally got back to my full workout, but my knee was feeling good.  I felt like I had prepared the best that I could. I accepted “what is” and committed to doing my best. 

There was just one more thing to think about: the weather forecast in Peru called for rain and storms the entire four days of the hike. I was a little disappointed but wasn’t going to let the weather deter me. I packed in preparation for the rainy weather, realizing weather is one of those things that I cannot control, but I can be prepared for it. 

A Group Effort

Our hiking group included 16 people, who were a variety of ages and nationalities. We had two guides who encouraged and led us through the trails.  

These guides kept us on track by waking us up at 4 a.m. with cocoa tea, a beverage that helps with energy and altitude sickness. They had us packed and heading out each morning after a hearty breakfast by no later than 6 a.m.  Our guides also entertained us by using humor during breaks and sharing the history and facts about the trail over meals.

The first two days were the most challenging. Inca trails and stairs were intentionally designed with uneven shapes and sizes of rocks to integrate with the mountain terrain. That design also helped with enduring the region’s heavy precipitation during the rainy season. 

Starting on the first day, hiking the trail was a practice in mindfulness. Every step I took was carefully thought out. Which step was safest and the most practical? Which step would expend the least amount of energy? The altitude was a real thing and shortness of breath had to be considered for every step taken. If a person were to daydream or lose focus it would be easy to fall and hurt yourself. That reminder was immediately reinforced when our group, just starting our journey, lined up along one side of the path ascending the mountain to make room for a woman being carried down on a stretcher. 

Day 2 was the big day that we had all been anticipating: climbing to 14,000 ft. As we were hiking the last 45-minute stretch on our way to Dead Woman’s Pass, our guide told us that we would hike alone. The guides would remain behind at a distance to give us the space we needed for this part of the pilgrimage. Once we made it to the peak, it was exhilarating. The view was beautiful; we were in the clouds, which felt surreal – and that was just the first part of the day. We had to descend, ascend, and descend again before we made camp. We were proud of our accomplishment on that very full day and so ready to sleep that night. 

The next two days were much lighter. On Day 3, we ate breakfast, enjoying a gorgeous mountain view, before hiking at a more relaxed pace. We made it to our campsite by lunch, which gave us time to visit nearby Inca ruins and take a nap.  

On Day 4, we were told the most difficult part of this segment of the trail was called Gringo’s Killer Steps; once we reached that point, we would be close to Machu Picchu. Gringo’s Killer Steps entailed about 70 narrow, uneven stone stairs that you climbed up like a monkey using both your hands and feet, which was a little awkward, but manageable.

A Spiritual View

After climbing Gringo’s Killer Steps and coming up over the walkway, my guide told me to turn around and look. “You made it,” she said. “Look!”

I turned to look out over the horizon. The view was stunning, the sun shining brightly and so many people were gazing down below, taking pictures and relishing the moment. What I saw cannot be described adequately in words. The sun was shining through the Sungate down on Machu Picchu, which was in the midst of the mountains. It looked like a grand city of gold, sparkling in the daylight. 

Tears welled up in my eyes and a lump formed in my throat. It was so magical a spiritual experience that I couldn’t speak; I felt honored and humbled at the same time to be able to experience the profoundness of this moment. 

It was hard to believe that  we had accomplished the four-day trek in this spiritual setting, which was challenging and rewarding all at the same time. I did it! 

But what was the point? 

As I reflect on this journey, I feel empowered. I did something that many only dream about. I also felt honored to have walked the path that many have walked for centuries. Their reasons (trade, communication and the military) may have been different from mine and their attire was much simpler (no hiking boots, down jacket, or walking poles). But we all share this experience and the breathtaking beauty of the Andes. 

I also reflected on the majesty of my surroundings. On many of our rest stops along the way, I reveled in nature, especially the mountains. They felt alive. 

I now understood why the Incas believed that supernatural spirits lived in the mountains, the rivers and even the stone. Being surrounded by the Andes, breathing in the air and feeling the historical significance was magical. 

Taking Stock

Looking back, the things I had worried about weren’t as problematic as they could have been. My knee throbbed on the evening of Day 1, but I took some Advil and my joint was fine after that. As far as the rain, we had some sprinkles here and there. One night it rained pretty heavily, but we were all snug in our tents. 

One day, I mentioned how grateful I was for the beautiful weather to one of the guides. She said, “It is because you all are so positive. You sent out positive energy to the universe, and it came back to you.” I liked her way of thinking.

As a result of this trip, I learned a few more things about myself. Throughout the preparation for this journey and the actual hike, I learned that I could handle a setback and keep pushing forward. My positive attitude is reflected back to me, and I am able to let go of what I cannot control. 

Ascending the trail represented the struggles we face when working towards a goal. We push through, adjust where needed, and hopefully make it to our destination. 

But I found that the descent was often the most challenging part of the trail for me. I had to be extra cognizant and focus even more on each step. Going down could have me spiraling out of control. I could choose rushing and possibly a freefall or take it easy and be mindful. I chose to be mindful, to pay attention and focus. 

It made me think, how many of us freefall through life? How many of us are focused and intentional? 

When I look back, I see a significant shift in how I’ve perceived my life over the past three decades. As I approached 30, what could have been excitement about celebrating another birthday turned to dread of adding another year to my age. I sensed a little depression seeping in the few months before my actual birth date each year after that. Was I on the right path? What was my purpose? Why am I here?

In my 40s, I made big changes, including getting a divorce, earning a master’s degree, and starting a new career path. 

When I hit 50, my focus changed again. I started being serious about taking care of myself and making decisions that aligned with my values. I cared less about what others thought and became selective of who I spent time with. 

I now realize that at the ripe young age of 60, I am strong and capable. I still have a lot to give in this next chapter of life. 

I was looking for a meaningful trip -- a pilgrimage, so to speak -- to honor my 60th birthday. I found it in Machu Picchu. Unlike some of my previous birthdays, I have no qualms about this one. I am proud. It feels good. It feels right. I feel at home, no matter where on Earth I might be.